This is a basic training program for anybody who wants to get better at climbing and is a little over just pulling plastic. It is quite vaguely “borrowed” out of the book “how to climb 5.12”. Here’s the authors website which also contains a lot of tips and other useful training techniques.
www.trainingforclimbing.com.
First up lets break down a typical training session at the gym.
1 the warm up – easy climbs, stretches, etc.
2 climb new stuff learn new moves do anything that is new and different
3 do old climbs and work moves that you can already do. This is for when you are fatigued and no longer climbing the your best.
4 warm down – so stretchs, flodge etc.
Apparently eating protein and carbs with in 2 hours of a work out improves recovery ie steak and beer. Other wise is is good to steer clear of food that causes a big spikes in blood sugar level.
The general program is broken up into 4 sections over a 10 week period. Since it is 10 weeks to Christmas this is a good thing. Sorry guys I have only just thought of it so it officially starts today on wed the 21st and the end of week 9 is the 23rd of Dec. If you want to start late chop a bit out as you see fit. The first 2 sections are the most important as section 3 is how we normally climb in the gym. The aim is to finish before Christmas because the ledge closes then.
The number of times you should climb each week are very vague. If you have an relaxed training session then you can climb more often. If it’s intense then give your self 1 too 2 days rest. The idea is to fit it around people’s weekly schedules.
The reason the training schedule is broken up this way is because of the way the nerves, bones and tendons recover. They all take significantly longer than muscle to recover so changing the focus in theory allows the other areas to recover.
Section 1 – 4 weeks – endurance
Section 2 – 3 weeks – strength
Section 3 – 2 weeks – strength endurance
Section 4 – 1 week – rest
The first 4 weeks focus on endurance. So climbing for longer than 5 minutes, breathing deeply not climbing at your strength limit. Objective is mileage not hard climbs. To get the mileage you can do traverses or down climb or do 4 climbs in a row then your partner climbs 4 in a row. You should try to climb 3 – 4 times a week
The next 3 weeks are focussed on strength. So short hard routes rest between routes for 3 minutes. Focus on hard moves crimps overhangs. You should not be on the wall or rope for longer than 2 minutes. If you can not access the gym hang boards are just as good if not better. Don’t hang for longer than 2 minutes using a pack with weight in it is also good. Climb 2 times a week
The next 2 weeks is on strength endurance. So this is how we normally climb in the gym. So hard routes 2 – 5 minutes on the wall. 3 minutes rest. At your limit the whole time. A weight belt is a good addition for this period. If you can’t access the gym do lots of chin ups with a pack. Climb 2 – 3 times a week.
The last week is rest do no climbing. You can rest for 2 weeks as well. Or a month with only a loss of strength and nothing else. Also good for injuries. Besides the ledge is closed.
GUYS FEEL FREE TO POINT OUT ANY SPELLING ERRORS PROBLEMS WITH IT ETC. OR JUST FIX IT IF YOUR ON ADMIN
IT WOULD ALSO BE GOOD TO GET SOME FEEDBACK FROM PEOPLE WHO ARE INTERESTED. A LITLE BIT OF MOTIVATION WOULD HELP ME TO KEEP THIS GOING.
Posted: 21 October, 2009 at 12:11 pm, by DaveD, in:
Training
